luxury cars great neck image
Jeri
one slide out,about thirty feet long
Answer
You are approaching this decision wrong.
You should be looking first at what you are going to use for a tow vehicle. Find out how much weight it is able to pull without exceeding its Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR, usually found on driver door). Note that weight ratings are different if you are using an in-bed hitch like a fifth wheel / goose neck or bumper ball or weight distribution/equalizing system. The latter will likely be required if your vehicle is front wheel drive. Then take a look at how many people can sit in the tow vehicle with seat belts, as you will probably want that same number sleeping in the trailer. Of course, if you have a car, you can't pull a fifth wheel very easily (though it can be done with special setups) as you can with a pickup. While you are thinking about weight, also think about power of your vehicle and places that you would want to go. A small SUV can pull a trailer just fine on flat to gentle hills, but will labor badly in mountains going up and get pushed coming back down.
Once you identify how much weight you have to work with, visit a *large* dealer of trailers, especially used. Why consider used? Because you are likely to find a greater assortment of various styles and floor plans that are based on building methods that are luxury, lightweight, ultra light, popup (yes, there are very long popups - see HiLo trailers), traditional and so forth. Be straight up front with the salesman with the information you know. Under NO circumstances should you let the salesman pressure you into a purchase that exceeds, or nearly exceeds, your weight limits. I say nearly because if your limit is 5000 pounds, and you buy a coach that weighs 4700 pounds empty, what are you going to do with the clothing / food / waste / toys / whatever that you want to bring along? Yep, now you may be overweight and in a dangerous situation.
Once you identify the class of trailer (lightweight, ultralight, fifth wheel, travel trailer, popup, etc) then you can start looking at floor plans and sleeping arrangements. Make sure that little ones will have plenty of space to play indoors when it starts raining torrential downpours. Again, keep in mind the places that you like to go (lot of parks have length and height limits) and how long you want to stay out (boon docking - meaning no connections - mandates you carry everything self contained) and that your trailer can accommodate.
I am not specifying any particular brand over another since the industry seems to be out of control. New units seem to be plagued with quality control issues across the board but have warranties, but used units can have terrific deals even if manufacturers are out of business. If you are new to the lifestyle, then please consider a used model first. Consider it a trainer model as you learn to tow / maneuver / use the unit. Mistakes are going to be made, better to be done with on a cheaper unit vs a new one with a large lien attached...
If you are indeed new, also consider renting a trailer for a weekend (keep weight in mind) and see what you liked / didn't like about the experience, what could have been different, etc. Then talk to the salesman, and let them know. They work commission (usually), and if they know you wont buy unless you are happy, they wont waste yours (or theirs) time.
You mentioned a single slide out. For a mid-level trailer, this is likely going to be at least third as long as the trailer. Its also a big potential of water leaks. ALL SLIDEOUTS LEAK! The trick is to redirect the water back outside and not pooling inside. Pay attention to condition of seals, inside and outside, and ANY discoloration around the slide. Failures with refrigerators in slides are common, as are stoves and sinks due to hoses for supply (Water, LP) and drains.
Buy something that you can work on or learn how to. That is the biggest expense of owning a trailer / coach: paying somebody else to repair and maintain. Of course, if it is a warranty issue, then it needs to go to a dealer.
Look beyond the surface (shiny wheels, fancy radio, big tv) as those tend to be visual distractions to keep you from seeing the small stuff that should be noticed. Especially on used.
Don't buy first one, take at least a few days and mull it over. Unless its an absolute perfect match, wait to buy. If it sells, so be it. There are literally thousands of others available.
You are approaching this decision wrong.
You should be looking first at what you are going to use for a tow vehicle. Find out how much weight it is able to pull without exceeding its Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR, usually found on driver door). Note that weight ratings are different if you are using an in-bed hitch like a fifth wheel / goose neck or bumper ball or weight distribution/equalizing system. The latter will likely be required if your vehicle is front wheel drive. Then take a look at how many people can sit in the tow vehicle with seat belts, as you will probably want that same number sleeping in the trailer. Of course, if you have a car, you can't pull a fifth wheel very easily (though it can be done with special setups) as you can with a pickup. While you are thinking about weight, also think about power of your vehicle and places that you would want to go. A small SUV can pull a trailer just fine on flat to gentle hills, but will labor badly in mountains going up and get pushed coming back down.
Once you identify how much weight you have to work with, visit a *large* dealer of trailers, especially used. Why consider used? Because you are likely to find a greater assortment of various styles and floor plans that are based on building methods that are luxury, lightweight, ultra light, popup (yes, there are very long popups - see HiLo trailers), traditional and so forth. Be straight up front with the salesman with the information you know. Under NO circumstances should you let the salesman pressure you into a purchase that exceeds, or nearly exceeds, your weight limits. I say nearly because if your limit is 5000 pounds, and you buy a coach that weighs 4700 pounds empty, what are you going to do with the clothing / food / waste / toys / whatever that you want to bring along? Yep, now you may be overweight and in a dangerous situation.
Once you identify the class of trailer (lightweight, ultralight, fifth wheel, travel trailer, popup, etc) then you can start looking at floor plans and sleeping arrangements. Make sure that little ones will have plenty of space to play indoors when it starts raining torrential downpours. Again, keep in mind the places that you like to go (lot of parks have length and height limits) and how long you want to stay out (boon docking - meaning no connections - mandates you carry everything self contained) and that your trailer can accommodate.
I am not specifying any particular brand over another since the industry seems to be out of control. New units seem to be plagued with quality control issues across the board but have warranties, but used units can have terrific deals even if manufacturers are out of business. If you are new to the lifestyle, then please consider a used model first. Consider it a trainer model as you learn to tow / maneuver / use the unit. Mistakes are going to be made, better to be done with on a cheaper unit vs a new one with a large lien attached...
If you are indeed new, also consider renting a trailer for a weekend (keep weight in mind) and see what you liked / didn't like about the experience, what could have been different, etc. Then talk to the salesman, and let them know. They work commission (usually), and if they know you wont buy unless you are happy, they wont waste yours (or theirs) time.
You mentioned a single slide out. For a mid-level trailer, this is likely going to be at least third as long as the trailer. Its also a big potential of water leaks. ALL SLIDEOUTS LEAK! The trick is to redirect the water back outside and not pooling inside. Pay attention to condition of seals, inside and outside, and ANY discoloration around the slide. Failures with refrigerators in slides are common, as are stoves and sinks due to hoses for supply (Water, LP) and drains.
Buy something that you can work on or learn how to. That is the biggest expense of owning a trailer / coach: paying somebody else to repair and maintain. Of course, if it is a warranty issue, then it needs to go to a dealer.
Look beyond the surface (shiny wheels, fancy radio, big tv) as those tend to be visual distractions to keep you from seeing the small stuff that should be noticed. Especially on used.
Don't buy first one, take at least a few days and mull it over. Unless its an absolute perfect match, wait to buy. If it sells, so be it. There are literally thousands of others available.
Need opinions on Rav4 vs Honda CRV vs VW Rabbit -?
K.B.
I'm shopping for a NEW vehicle - I want to stay close to $22k (originally wanted under $18k) - I've thought about the Rabbit as used Jetta wagons I've test driven feel very sporty yet well built, tight.
I test drove a Rav4 today and it feels pretty good too. I also like the Matrix as it's more car-like than the CRV or Rav4. But I'd have to somehow special order side curtain airbags on the Matrix.
I looked at the CRV but it's a bit more pricey. I have and am keeping a '95 Civic that we like as a 3rd car. But it's low on features and needs some work.
With some of these the features I would like, it puts the vehicle up into the higher price range, but I don't want the leather interior that some of those have. I have plenty of time to wait for the dealer to find me the exact vehicle I want.
I haven't seen many Rabbits out there, and have heard that some VW models are a bit expensive to maintain.
My husband has a Prius - we love that car & service we get at the dealer.
Thanks folks, but I've owned several American cars and have had better luck with my Honda and previous Japanese cars. My Dodge Colt (Japanese imported by Dodge), and my Honda, both lasted well over 100,000 miles and my Chevy & Ford, and my Mom's Buick did not or will not likely last that long.
So, I am looking for input on the Toyota Rav4, the Honda CRV or the VW Rabbit. Thanks anyway.
Answer
For all you people that think vw is a great brand, what do you have to say about this?
Least reliable small car 2006: VW jetta
http://money.cnn.com/popups/2006/autos/reliable/index.html
Least reliable cars 2005: VW Jetta, VW passat, VW touarge
http://www.reflector.com/money/content/shared/money/stories/clark/0406/041111cars.html
Least reliable cars 2004: VW jetta, VW beetle, VW GOLF
http://money.cnn.com/2004/11/08/pf/autos/cr_auto_reliability/
Least reliable Luxury vehicle 2006: VW Touarge
http://www.forbes.com/forbeslife/vehicles/2006/07/28/luxury-cars-breakdowns_cx_dl_0731reliable.html
Least reliable luxury vehicle 2005: VW Touarge
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2005/cr_car_reliability.html
Least reliable cars 2003: VW Cabrio, VW touarge, VW jetta, VW passat
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/pricing/best-worst-in-car-reliability-1005/most-least-reliable-used-cars/0704_most-least-reliable-used-cars.htm
It keeps going and going and going.
I dont even want to get in on the 'quality' of vw parts. They have continuously scored 2 out of 5 on quality for a dozen years by nearly every consumer group!
VWs are JUNK. Dont even consider THINKING about buying one. Browse the horror stories the day after vw owners pass 60,000 miles Http://www.vwvortex.com http://www.vwfixx.com
Now back to the other cars.
Both the rav4 and crv have scored numerous awards in quality, design, safety. The cost for standard maintenance for both cars is a bit high.
The first number is the rav4, the second is the crv
/C Compressor=$825-$605
Alternator=$710-$450
Automatic Transmission or Transaxle -$1,995-$1880
Brakes-$755-$420
Clutch, Pressure Plate, Bearing -$560-$510
Constant Velocity Joints-$670-$2350
Exhaust System-$755-$380
Radiator -$720-$515
Shocks and/or Struts-$860-$1195
Timing Chain or Belt -$420-$355
(price includes parts and labor)
Overall, Honda and toyota are neck in neck when it comes to reliability. however, I think honda may have pulled ahead this year due to the rush by toyota to bring the yaris here (largest recall in company history)
I personally dont like the looks of either, im more of a sports car guy, but the quality is great with either.
Toyota took over gm as the largest automaker in the world this last quarter, so maybe you should hit the honda up so toyota doesnt get bigger.
For all you people that think vw is a great brand, what do you have to say about this?
Least reliable small car 2006: VW jetta
http://money.cnn.com/popups/2006/autos/reliable/index.html
Least reliable cars 2005: VW Jetta, VW passat, VW touarge
http://www.reflector.com/money/content/shared/money/stories/clark/0406/041111cars.html
Least reliable cars 2004: VW jetta, VW beetle, VW GOLF
http://money.cnn.com/2004/11/08/pf/autos/cr_auto_reliability/
Least reliable Luxury vehicle 2006: VW Touarge
http://www.forbes.com/forbeslife/vehicles/2006/07/28/luxury-cars-breakdowns_cx_dl_0731reliable.html
Least reliable luxury vehicle 2005: VW Touarge
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2005/cr_car_reliability.html
Least reliable cars 2003: VW Cabrio, VW touarge, VW jetta, VW passat
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/pricing/best-worst-in-car-reliability-1005/most-least-reliable-used-cars/0704_most-least-reliable-used-cars.htm
It keeps going and going and going.
I dont even want to get in on the 'quality' of vw parts. They have continuously scored 2 out of 5 on quality for a dozen years by nearly every consumer group!
VWs are JUNK. Dont even consider THINKING about buying one. Browse the horror stories the day after vw owners pass 60,000 miles Http://www.vwvortex.com http://www.vwfixx.com
Now back to the other cars.
Both the rav4 and crv have scored numerous awards in quality, design, safety. The cost for standard maintenance for both cars is a bit high.
The first number is the rav4, the second is the crv
/C Compressor=$825-$605
Alternator=$710-$450
Automatic Transmission or Transaxle -$1,995-$1880
Brakes-$755-$420
Clutch, Pressure Plate, Bearing -$560-$510
Constant Velocity Joints-$670-$2350
Exhaust System-$755-$380
Radiator -$720-$515
Shocks and/or Struts-$860-$1195
Timing Chain or Belt -$420-$355
(price includes parts and labor)
Overall, Honda and toyota are neck in neck when it comes to reliability. however, I think honda may have pulled ahead this year due to the rush by toyota to bring the yaris here (largest recall in company history)
I personally dont like the looks of either, im more of a sports car guy, but the quality is great with either.
Toyota took over gm as the largest automaker in the world this last quarter, so maybe you should hit the honda up so toyota doesnt get bigger.
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