luxury cars under 60k image
cpuvvada
I'm thinking about buying a Jetta. I really liked the car during the test drive but I was told by a relative that Jettas require a lot of expensive repairs compared to similar cars.
PLEASE DON'T ANSWER UNLESS YOU'VE OWNED A JETTA FOR AT LEAST 15 MONTHS!
Answer
You have to buy the right kind of jetta. I know it sounds odd, but I was dead set on a 2001 - 2004 vr6 manual trans Jetta. Those were the ones that had the fewest problems when I worked at Vw as a tech. I love my car, 136k miles and I have only replaced the drive belt tensioner, the thermostat housing, airflow sensor and a ton of turn signal bulbs. It drives as strong as ever. I live in Florida and climate does have a lot to do with electrical reliability. I suggest you ask around in your area about jetta's reliability.
Rule #1, never buy a German automatic vehicle under $60k - especially fwd. Many 'cheap' german car atx's are recycled GM's and Borg Warners and such that can't take the heat german cars are known to produce causing premature failure. Ever feel the force of an Audi A8 W12 cooling fan? It wants to suck you into the engine bay - all that to cool the engine.
Rule #2, never buy a German turbocharged 4 cylinder vehicle. All turbo cars will meet an early grave. A turbo is a cheap way to boost power and keep fuel efficiency - at the scarifice of engine life and it makes even more damaging heat. The turbo will go right after your warranty runs out - convenient.
Rule #3, Never buy the cheapest model / trim. It is cheap for a reason, Go mid priced on the mechanicals and skimp on the luxuries and you should be pleased with the results.
This is just my opinion based off what I've seen. I also have a 95 4 cylinder 5 spd with 230k miles on it. Original clutch! (no, just kidding) It is starting to become troublesome now, but I love that car still.
You also have to stay on top of the oil changes especially on these aluminum engines. The old iron block engines can throw connection rods for days and still be rebuildable. On an aluminum engine, a few missed oil changes will cause the engine to cannibalize itself (really small oil passages that easily get clogged with sludge hence the 0w40 spec oils and such ) and leave you with an $8000 repair bill. I see it all the time.
You have to buy the right kind of jetta. I know it sounds odd, but I was dead set on a 2001 - 2004 vr6 manual trans Jetta. Those were the ones that had the fewest problems when I worked at Vw as a tech. I love my car, 136k miles and I have only replaced the drive belt tensioner, the thermostat housing, airflow sensor and a ton of turn signal bulbs. It drives as strong as ever. I live in Florida and climate does have a lot to do with electrical reliability. I suggest you ask around in your area about jetta's reliability.
Rule #1, never buy a German automatic vehicle under $60k - especially fwd. Many 'cheap' german car atx's are recycled GM's and Borg Warners and such that can't take the heat german cars are known to produce causing premature failure. Ever feel the force of an Audi A8 W12 cooling fan? It wants to suck you into the engine bay - all that to cool the engine.
Rule #2, never buy a German turbocharged 4 cylinder vehicle. All turbo cars will meet an early grave. A turbo is a cheap way to boost power and keep fuel efficiency - at the scarifice of engine life and it makes even more damaging heat. The turbo will go right after your warranty runs out - convenient.
Rule #3, Never buy the cheapest model / trim. It is cheap for a reason, Go mid priced on the mechanicals and skimp on the luxuries and you should be pleased with the results.
This is just my opinion based off what I've seen. I also have a 95 4 cylinder 5 spd with 230k miles on it. Original clutch! (no, just kidding) It is starting to become troublesome now, but I love that car still.
You also have to stay on top of the oil changes especially on these aluminum engines. The old iron block engines can throw connection rods for days and still be rebuildable. On an aluminum engine, a few missed oil changes will cause the engine to cannibalize itself (really small oil passages that easily get clogged with sludge hence the 0w40 spec oils and such ) and leave you with an $8000 repair bill. I see it all the time.
is buying a car with a lot of miles bad?
audrey
im 16 and looking to buy a car. i have to get a cheap one (about $10,000 and under) and every car that i look at has a lot of miles
does that really matter? and if so what happens with a car with a lot of miles?
like 90k miles - 150k.
Answer
Not really sure what you're looking for. I was looking a week ago and saw an Audi A4 with 60K miles for 10K listed locally. Great deals like that come along, just watch and jump. I'm sure you'll be able to find something good.
If you're looking for something japanese, look at Nissan and Mitsubishi. They have the same qualities and appeal as Toyota and Honda, but they are less well known so you get a better deal.
Hyundai and Kia make very good, cheap cars.
However, I think the best deals in used cars are from the European luxury makes. You can have an Audi or Mercedes for the same price as a Camry. I think it's a no-brainer.
Cars.com, Autotrader.com, and Craigslist have tons of listing, so use them all
Not really sure what you're looking for. I was looking a week ago and saw an Audi A4 with 60K miles for 10K listed locally. Great deals like that come along, just watch and jump. I'm sure you'll be able to find something good.
If you're looking for something japanese, look at Nissan and Mitsubishi. They have the same qualities and appeal as Toyota and Honda, but they are less well known so you get a better deal.
Hyundai and Kia make very good, cheap cars.
However, I think the best deals in used cars are from the European luxury makes. You can have an Audi or Mercedes for the same price as a Camry. I think it's a no-brainer.
Cars.com, Autotrader.com, and Craigslist have tons of listing, so use them all
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