sports cars information image
umm...
From what i heard, the average fuel efficiency of a companies fleet must be 35 mpg, but does this only apply to cars or to trucks as well, and does this mean low mpg cars will still exist as sports cars or no?
Answer
You are misinformed. This isn't "Obama's fuel efficiency plan," it is actually Bush's plan.
The new fuel economy standards are part of H.R. 6, the Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007, signed by President Bush on Wed. Dec. 19, 2007.
Bill H.R. 6 information: http://thomas.loc.gov/cgi-bin/bdquery/D?d110:6:./list/bss/d110HR.lst::|TOM:/bss/110search.html|
The fuel economy portion is also called the "Ten in Ten Fuel Economy Act."
Basically, beginning with the 2011 model year, the Sec. of Transportation (with input from the Sec. of Energy and the Administrator of the EPA) shall start moving the CAFE standard up annually, until in model year 2020 it is at or over 35mpg. The law doesn't state by how much it has to increase annually, just that it increases until 2020.
President Obama has just asked the US EPA and DOT to accelerate the existing 35mpg CAFE Bush mandate's date of 2020 up to 2016. http://www.whitehouse.gov/the_press_office/President-Obama-Announces-National-Fuel-Efficiency-Policy/
Previous to the 2007 law, the last time that Congress set the fuel economy standards, was back in 1975 (when Ford was president), so moving the bar up from 27.5mpg for cars to 35mpg after 32 years shouldn't be much of a problem. (Light trucks have always had a lower rating to keep.)
Remember that the MPG listed on the Monroney label (window sticker, also listed at http://www.fueleconomy.gov/) isn't the fuel economy numbers used for the CAFE standards. CAFE uses the raw fuel economy numbers from the laboratory dynometer tests, but consumers only see the downward multiplied numbers to account for more "realistic driving."
The CAFE standards are based on the city/highway average of the raw laboratory data, multiplied by the vehicle sales. The devaluation for the sticker/fuel economy label has no effect on the CAFE average. The more sales of a high-MPG vehicle, the more that'll balance out sales of a low-MPG vehicle... So production numbers will probably change to include more of the fuel efficient vehicles to outweigh the sales of the less fuel efficient ones. Just like how manufacturers currently can sell vehicles that are less than the 25mpg fleet average so long as you have others to balance you out, the change to 35mpg doesn't mean that all vehicles will have to be over 35mpg... Nothing about cars getting smaller or lighter or adding hybrid systems, but more about changing the mix of what is sold. Nothing about the existing cars prior to the 2011 model year.
Heavy trucks/work vehicles are not affected - vehicles with GVWR over 8,500 pounds aren't tested for fuel economy. http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/which_tested.shtml
You can view the raw EPA test data for various years, and an explanation of the columns, here: http://www.epa.gov/otaq/tcldata.htm
For an example, let's take the 2008 Toyota Highlander and the 2008 Dodge Viper Coupe.
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymodel/2008_Toyota_Highlander.shtml
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymodel/2008_Dodge_Viper.shtml
lists for consumers:
TH 2WD: 18mpg city/24mpg highway
TH 4WD: 17mpg city/23mpg highway
TH Hybrid 4WD: 27mpg city/25mpg highway
DV Coupe: 13mpg city/22mpg highway
but using the 2008 raw data, which the CAFE standards are based on:
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/cert/mpg/testcars/database/08tstcar.csv
TH 2WD: 22.1mpg city/33.1mpg highway
TH 4WD: 21.2mpg city/31.3mpg highway
TH Hybrid 4WD: 35.3mpg city/35.2mpg highway
DV Coupe: 15.6mpg city/30mpg highway
So I wouldn't expect much change in the cars being offered, but the availability of certain gas-guzzlers may be less.
You are misinformed. This isn't "Obama's fuel efficiency plan," it is actually Bush's plan.
The new fuel economy standards are part of H.R. 6, the Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007, signed by President Bush on Wed. Dec. 19, 2007.
Bill H.R. 6 information: http://thomas.loc.gov/cgi-bin/bdquery/D?d110:6:./list/bss/d110HR.lst::|TOM:/bss/110search.html|
The fuel economy portion is also called the "Ten in Ten Fuel Economy Act."
Basically, beginning with the 2011 model year, the Sec. of Transportation (with input from the Sec. of Energy and the Administrator of the EPA) shall start moving the CAFE standard up annually, until in model year 2020 it is at or over 35mpg. The law doesn't state by how much it has to increase annually, just that it increases until 2020.
President Obama has just asked the US EPA and DOT to accelerate the existing 35mpg CAFE Bush mandate's date of 2020 up to 2016. http://www.whitehouse.gov/the_press_office/President-Obama-Announces-National-Fuel-Efficiency-Policy/
Previous to the 2007 law, the last time that Congress set the fuel economy standards, was back in 1975 (when Ford was president), so moving the bar up from 27.5mpg for cars to 35mpg after 32 years shouldn't be much of a problem. (Light trucks have always had a lower rating to keep.)
Remember that the MPG listed on the Monroney label (window sticker, also listed at http://www.fueleconomy.gov/) isn't the fuel economy numbers used for the CAFE standards. CAFE uses the raw fuel economy numbers from the laboratory dynometer tests, but consumers only see the downward multiplied numbers to account for more "realistic driving."
The CAFE standards are based on the city/highway average of the raw laboratory data, multiplied by the vehicle sales. The devaluation for the sticker/fuel economy label has no effect on the CAFE average. The more sales of a high-MPG vehicle, the more that'll balance out sales of a low-MPG vehicle... So production numbers will probably change to include more of the fuel efficient vehicles to outweigh the sales of the less fuel efficient ones. Just like how manufacturers currently can sell vehicles that are less than the 25mpg fleet average so long as you have others to balance you out, the change to 35mpg doesn't mean that all vehicles will have to be over 35mpg... Nothing about cars getting smaller or lighter or adding hybrid systems, but more about changing the mix of what is sold. Nothing about the existing cars prior to the 2011 model year.
Heavy trucks/work vehicles are not affected - vehicles with GVWR over 8,500 pounds aren't tested for fuel economy. http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/which_tested.shtml
You can view the raw EPA test data for various years, and an explanation of the columns, here: http://www.epa.gov/otaq/tcldata.htm
For an example, let's take the 2008 Toyota Highlander and the 2008 Dodge Viper Coupe.
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymodel/2008_Toyota_Highlander.shtml
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymodel/2008_Dodge_Viper.shtml
lists for consumers:
TH 2WD: 18mpg city/24mpg highway
TH 4WD: 17mpg city/23mpg highway
TH Hybrid 4WD: 27mpg city/25mpg highway
DV Coupe: 13mpg city/22mpg highway
but using the 2008 raw data, which the CAFE standards are based on:
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/cert/mpg/testcars/database/08tstcar.csv
TH 2WD: 22.1mpg city/33.1mpg highway
TH 4WD: 21.2mpg city/31.3mpg highway
TH Hybrid 4WD: 35.3mpg city/35.2mpg highway
DV Coupe: 15.6mpg city/30mpg highway
So I wouldn't expect much change in the cars being offered, but the availability of certain gas-guzzlers may be less.
how much does it cost to restore a mgb to running condition. on average?
dt
I want to restore a small sports car to running condition, just to tool around town. I would like any information on how much it might cost to restore one on average. I understand that this is tough to answer but would like any advice that you might have on the cost of restoring it.
Answer
I'm not very familiar with your car so I am basing my answer on old cars in general.The other writers make valid points about bodywork etc, but I'm going to go under the premise you just want to get it running and not do a complete restoration if possible. I am also taking it for granted the engine and transmission are solid and the car just hasn't been run for a while and was stored under good conditions (indoors) and not in a backyard for 25 years. I can't give you a dollar figure but I'll list what I would do and then you can get the prices from parts houses or repair shops if you're not going to do the work yourself. For the engine: Remove the spark plugs and squirt some oil in the cylinders. Turn the engine over a few times by hand. There will be at least some surface rust in the cylinders and you don't want to scrape it off with dry rings. Once that is done replace the following parts: Plugs, points, condenser, cap rotor, wires, fuel filter, air filter. It wouldn't be a bad idea to disassemble the distributor, clean everything up, and make sure the advance weights and springs move freely. Change oil and filter (if equipped). Remove the starter and test it with jumper cables. If it's just a little sluggish take it apart, clean it, lube the bearings. If it's dead or completely rusted inside, replace it. Electrical: Install a new battery, replace cables, check all electrical connections throughout the car for corrosion. Replace headlight bulbs, turn signal bulbs, brake light bulbs. Fuel system: rebuild or replace the carburetor. Remove the fuel tank and have it boiled out by a shop to remove rust. (Many radiator repair shops can do it) Check metal fuel lines, replace any flexible lines, rebuild or replace the fuel pump. Drivetrain: The clutch itself may still be usable at least for a short period of time but be prepared to replace it. Change transmission oil, clean clutch and shift linkage. Some older cars had grease fittings on the clutch linkage and if that's the case with your car, by this time any old lubricant has become a petrified glob of hardened crud. If no grease fittings, take the clutch and shift linkage apart and clean them. Check universal joints. If they have grease fittings then grease them but be prepared to replace them especially after they are put back in service. There's a good chance they could be rusty inside and after a short time will need to be replaced. Drain and refill rear end lubricant. There's probably no drain plug so you'll need a suction gun or if there is a removable cover plate, remove the plate and clean whatever you can reach by hand. Steering: Check lubricant in the steering box, grease the front end, check for wear. Brakes: Rebuild or replace the master cylinder and all wheel cylinders. Replace brake shoes and springs. Have all drums cut to remove rust. If they are maxed out or severely warped and out of round, replace them. Repack or replace all wheel bearings and replace grease seals. If you're not very familiar with the car expect things to go wrong which may not occur to you now. For instance if I found an old 8 cylinder Ford Mustang that hadn't been driven in 25 years I'd replace the timing chain because it was an item known to wear out at about 75,000 miles. If the car had been sitting for a long time then put back in service I'd be foolish not to replace the chain even if I got the car running. A lot is going to depend on how it was stored. If it was up on blocks in a garage you stand a good chance of doing just the things I mentioned to get it drivable. If it has been out in a field for 25 years, subject to the weather, mice, etc, be prepared for a full restoration before you even think of driving it. It might be worth the time and cost to have it towed to a mechanic you trust and pay him to go over the car and tell you if it's worth trying to fix up to drive without a complete rebuild and-or restoration. It's one thing to get it running and go up and down the driveway. It's another thing to drive it on the street.
I'm not very familiar with your car so I am basing my answer on old cars in general.The other writers make valid points about bodywork etc, but I'm going to go under the premise you just want to get it running and not do a complete restoration if possible. I am also taking it for granted the engine and transmission are solid and the car just hasn't been run for a while and was stored under good conditions (indoors) and not in a backyard for 25 years. I can't give you a dollar figure but I'll list what I would do and then you can get the prices from parts houses or repair shops if you're not going to do the work yourself. For the engine: Remove the spark plugs and squirt some oil in the cylinders. Turn the engine over a few times by hand. There will be at least some surface rust in the cylinders and you don't want to scrape it off with dry rings. Once that is done replace the following parts: Plugs, points, condenser, cap rotor, wires, fuel filter, air filter. It wouldn't be a bad idea to disassemble the distributor, clean everything up, and make sure the advance weights and springs move freely. Change oil and filter (if equipped). Remove the starter and test it with jumper cables. If it's just a little sluggish take it apart, clean it, lube the bearings. If it's dead or completely rusted inside, replace it. Electrical: Install a new battery, replace cables, check all electrical connections throughout the car for corrosion. Replace headlight bulbs, turn signal bulbs, brake light bulbs. Fuel system: rebuild or replace the carburetor. Remove the fuel tank and have it boiled out by a shop to remove rust. (Many radiator repair shops can do it) Check metal fuel lines, replace any flexible lines, rebuild or replace the fuel pump. Drivetrain: The clutch itself may still be usable at least for a short period of time but be prepared to replace it. Change transmission oil, clean clutch and shift linkage. Some older cars had grease fittings on the clutch linkage and if that's the case with your car, by this time any old lubricant has become a petrified glob of hardened crud. If no grease fittings, take the clutch and shift linkage apart and clean them. Check universal joints. If they have grease fittings then grease them but be prepared to replace them especially after they are put back in service. There's a good chance they could be rusty inside and after a short time will need to be replaced. Drain and refill rear end lubricant. There's probably no drain plug so you'll need a suction gun or if there is a removable cover plate, remove the plate and clean whatever you can reach by hand. Steering: Check lubricant in the steering box, grease the front end, check for wear. Brakes: Rebuild or replace the master cylinder and all wheel cylinders. Replace brake shoes and springs. Have all drums cut to remove rust. If they are maxed out or severely warped and out of round, replace them. Repack or replace all wheel bearings and replace grease seals. If you're not very familiar with the car expect things to go wrong which may not occur to you now. For instance if I found an old 8 cylinder Ford Mustang that hadn't been driven in 25 years I'd replace the timing chain because it was an item known to wear out at about 75,000 miles. If the car had been sitting for a long time then put back in service I'd be foolish not to replace the chain even if I got the car running. A lot is going to depend on how it was stored. If it was up on blocks in a garage you stand a good chance of doing just the things I mentioned to get it drivable. If it has been out in a field for 25 years, subject to the weather, mice, etc, be prepared for a full restoration before you even think of driving it. It might be worth the time and cost to have it towed to a mechanic you trust and pay him to go over the car and tell you if it's worth trying to fix up to drive without a complete rebuild and-or restoration. It's one thing to get it running and go up and down the driveway. It's another thing to drive it on the street.
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