Harsha
Hello All, I am planning on buying a used BMW M3 and I have a couple deals right now and would like to ask you people which one is better and what are the pros and cons.
1. 2005 M3, SMG, coupe, 20K miles - $38000
2. 2003 M3, Manual, Hardtop convertible, 55k miles - $28000
3. 2004 M3, Manual, coupe, 24K miles - $35000
I always wanted to buy a hardtop convertible but then the miles scare me on that car. How much would an extended maintenence warranty cost me for upto 100K?
And also the third car owner states she has maintenence warranty untill Nov 2008 & full service warranty untill 2010. What is this service warranty???
Someone please help me here.. Also note.. I live in a place where it snows for 4 mons in an yr & I have a luxury sedan to drive in that period. and this will be my second car for fun.
And also what are the main things I need to be looking / checking for before buying such a costly sports car. how abt the tires ??? please help.& also my budget is around 35K
Answer
I have an 02 with 63K on it. Still feels, looks, and drives like new. It's all in how well it's taken care of. Oil changes are every 15,000 miles, or annually, whichever is first. For me it's annually. Oil is about $9 a quart, 7 quarts, plus filter cartridge. There is only one kind of oil it can take. Castrol TWS motorsport 10W-60.
Rear tires are every 15000 miles also. Fronts maybe 25000 if you're lucky.
If it were me, I'd go for the 2004. Not a convertible, and not SMG are my reasons. Mileage is not a consideration unless it's really high. Do not drive in snow. You already have that covered. Good. I'm sure the car would do just fine if it sat higher, and didn't have 40 series tires on it. I put wider tires on mine, so they're 35s in the back now, even worse.
SMG is great for a track, but regular driving I prefer the manual. Not sure what shift by wire means, unless he was referring to the SMG, because the manual stick goes straight into the gearbox, no wires, no linkage really other than the stick.
Don't worry about repair costs, mine has cost very little, if at all. Inspection 2 is every 30000 miles which means all three are about due, at a cost of ~ $1500. Only #3 might be free because of the maintenance warranty. Mine has had two of them already, both covered by the maintenance warranty, which is now expired. Oh and gas mileage, officially it was listed as 16/24. I have never seen 16, and get more than 24 on every fill up. I average 25 all the time, don't know how high it would be highway only, I'm thinking over 30, as I've gotten 28-29 on long highway trips myself, but I wasn't going 55 which is how the EPA tests I think. 25 is really good for 333 HP in my opinion. I don't drive with a light foot either.
Mine is for sale, $26000 if you're near Denver, with lots of later model retrofits like Sirius, MP3, LEDs, front strut brace, etc. It's a wonderful car and I'm having a hard time deciding to sell it. I love BMW 6 cylinders, but I also test drove a new one and love it too. So if someone says they'll buy it, I guess I'll let it go.
edit:
Mr. Fred, I don't know why you are calling me out on my answers, but allow me to explain so that the original question asker isn't confused by your remarks. Not trying to continue a "pissing match", but I feel since I am right, I must explain. I am providing examples of what I have seen and what I do to my E46 M3, to provide information related to the question.
As I said, I OWN an E46 M3, I drove it off the lot with 3 miles on it. I know what BMW insists is the right oil, and it is not 15W-50, I have the service bulletins, and the sticker under the hood specifying use only the oil I stated. You can go to Walmart if you like. Inspection 2 is more than a simple fluid check. It includes a valve adjustment, which is why it is so expensive. As I stated, I have not paid for one yet, but I know what the dealer would have charged. I changed my tire widths because I was doing track days. See my avatar? That's me. That has nothing to do with anything though, I was simply stating that it is no good in the snow, even worse with wider tires. And there is no wire or cable for the transmission, it's not a transaxle. I've been under the car and changed the oil on the transmission with- well I'll just say it wasn't from Walmart. I would think that an owner of an E46 M3 can speak the truth about what oil to use and what maintenance costs better than an E36 owner. I wouldn't tell an E92 owner that they don't know what they are talking about after owning if for 6 years. When I turn my key on, the service indicator says 15525 miles to next oil change after I just did it. Explain that. It counts down mile for mile unless the engine is cold or being driven hard, at which point it counts down faster. BMW wants it in for an oil change every year if you don't get to the 15000 miles. I've had this car for 6 years, I think I know how to change the oil and what the service guys at the dealer have told me. And since I own this car and fill it up on a regular basis (with premium) I know what kind of mileage it gets, you are guessing.
Need Advice for Moving to NYC after graduating from college?
BobaB
Will be moving to NYC in 07. Details:
Job Situation: I've accepted a FT job offer & will be working downtown in the Fin. District. Salary=$55K + $5K sign-on bonus +$7.5K relocation
Living Situation: Prefer to live close to work (although I know it would be more expensive) but am willing to live up to 1 hr away.
-Will probably be selling my car before I move up there
-Hoping to find a studio/1BR for no more than $1,500/mth
-If possible, I would love to live in a luxury apt (that includes gym & most utilities)
Area preference: Somewhere safe (female living by myself) and quiet (not a party person). It would be nice to be near the entertainment/shopping/museum areas
Questions:
-I'm moving from the south so my guarantor won't be from the tri-state area. Will I still be able to find something?
-In ref. to fin requirement: Will I be able to rent an apt as a new-hire just out of college?
-Specific area recommendations?
-How soon do I start looking for an apt? (start work in Sept 07)
Answer
September is the big month for people moving in, since school starts then. Suggest you try to aim for getting an apt in June/July when colleges and other schools are out, people leaving apts then.
As for area, keeping within an hour of the financial district, you have wide choices. For ex, there is a building, 700 Victory Blvd on Staten Island just 8 minutes by bus from the ferry, 25 minutes to Manhattan. This building has the athletic type facilities you ask about, plus an underground garage and out door parking, so you could keep your car. There are also a few buildings in Brooklyn Heights with similar facilities, but probably a lot more expensive.
I always suggest to people so check locations along the #7 IRT subway, which even at its last stop is little more than 30 minutes from Manhattan, and has at that last stop everything you could want.
In Manhattan, look at Inwood (above 204 St). This area is being yuppified, but is still nice, and a quick direct ride to the financial district on the A train, a seat the entire way.
Riverdale is a possibility as a couple buildings there also have the facilities you want, but is further from downtown.
As one moving into the area, landlords will most likely run a credit check on you. If you use a service to find an apt, they will generally charge you a month's rent, and you will have to lay out a month's rent as security deposit plus pay the first month, thus 3X you normal rent will be your outlay to start.
You should be able to find a 1BR for under $1500. Do not go the studio route--so cramped you will want to move soon.
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